An Edo Period Town and the Culture of Its People
KUROISHI
Kuroishi is a castle town where the townspeople’s culture has flourished since the Edo period. Nakamachi Komise-dori, listed among the top 100 roads in Japan, lies in the heart of the city and is lined with artisanal shops and sake breweries. Located in the mountains nearby, the Nuruyu district has over 400 years of history as a healing hot spring area and is the place where traditional wooden kokeshi dolls were born. The town is full to the brim with stylish destinations.
1 Take a stroll down Komise-dori
Feel like you’ve slipped through time just by walking down the street
Nakamachi Komise-dori, unaltered from the Edo, Taisho, and Showa periods, is the main street of Kuroishi. It has even been chosen as one of Japan’s top 100 roads. The eaves of the shops reach over the walkway and connect together, allowing shoppers to move freely and making the street the kind of warm arcade you only find in snowy regions. In the summer, Neputa lantern floats and the Kuroishi Yosare dancers parade through the streets. Snow blankets the street in winter, making the neighborhood all the more charming.
Live performances of Tsugaru Shamisen at Tsugaru Komise Eki
At Tsugaru Komise Eki, you can enjoy live performances of Tsugaru Shamisen for free. Tsugaru Shamisen is a style of Shamisen music that emphasizes the individuality of the performer by incorporating various techniques, such as strumming or striking the strings. The style also has rich variation with many changes in tempo and sound. The improvisational Tsugaru Jonkara Bushi differs greately depending on the performer. Hearing Tsugaru Jonkara Bushi live in Kuroishi, where the piece was created, is an unforgettable experience. Tsugaru Komise Eki also has seasonal local produce from Kuroishi on sale.
- Tsugaru Komise Eki
- Opening Hours: 9:00-17:00 (Closed for New Year’s Day)
- Tel. 0172-59-2080
- Tsugaru Shamisen Live Performances (Free)
- Mornings from 11:00 / Afternoons from 14:00
- *Performances are only on weekends and holidays In December. Please call for further details.
- 5 Nakamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
12-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
The birthplace of Tsugaru Jonkara Bushi
The main theme of Tsugaru Jonkara Bushi is the grief of Lord Aseishi upon his defeat by Tsugaru Tamenobu. As his temple burned, a priest named Jouen threw his body in the river and would go on to tell the regretful tale. (There are various theories.) While it is far from Komise-dori, there is a stone memorial erected on the riverbank inscribed with the words “The Birthplace of Tsugaru Jonkara Bushi” to tell of the area’s connection to the folk song.
- The birthplace of Tsugaru Jonkara Bushi (Stone Monument) Access
- Queries: Kuroishi Tourism Division
- Tel：0172-52-2111
- Sakurada Aseishi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
45-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
Where there’s outstanding water there’s outstanding sake
Nakamachi Komise-dori is home to a spring of underground water that runs from the Hakkoda Mountains, a region with some of the highest snowfall in the world. There are many breweries nearby, and it is even said that there were more than 30 during the Meiji period. The breweries that are currently in operation are Narumi Jozoten, which has made Kikunoi sake since the Edo period, and Nakamura Kamekichi, which began making Kamekichi sake during the Taisho period. If you go around to the side of Tsugaru Komise Eki, you can find a small spring called Komisen, where the underground water pours out freely. It is a popular spot, and many locals visit to fill up bottles of water every day.
- Komisen
- Nakamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
12-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
Inherited traditions over 200 years old, Inamura-ya, Narumi Jozoten
Narumi Jozoten makes flavorful and refreshing sake using rice, yeast, and water from Aomori Prefecture. The brewery has been in operation since 1806 and takes its nickname Inamura-ya from the area where they sourced their rice, as they always delivered even in years when the harvest was poor. The brewery is very popular with the locals. In the store, you can talk with the head of the brewery while enjoying a sake tasting.
- Narumi Jozoten
- Opening Hours: 8:30-16:30 (no fixed closing days)
- Tel. 0172-52-3321
- *Brewery tours are available from April through October (Free/Reservation Required)
- 1-1 Nakamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
12-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
Relax by the courtyard
A luxurious time
One of the perks of a sake tasting at Narumi Jozoten is that you’ll be led into the sitting room to view the inner garden. Landscaped in the Oishi Bugaku-ryu Style specific to the Tsugaru region, the garden was made using both large and small stones. Time will comfortably pass by as you relax there.
A refined building with a large sugidama. Nakamura Kamekichi Brewery
Nakamura Kamekichi Brewery was established in 1913 and is the other brewery on Komise-dori. A large sugidama or cedar ball hangs in front of the shop. They named one of their sake Tamadare after a folktale about a temple’s head priest. It is said that he would drink drops of water trickling from the roof of a cave while he was practicing meditation, and the water tasted sweet. The store has other popular brands of sake, such as the refreshingly crisp Kamekichi, which shares the name of the brewery.
- Nakamura Kamekichi Brewery
- Opening Hours: 8:30-17:00 (closed weekends and holidays)
- Tel. 0172-52-3361
- 12 Nakamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
10-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
2 The Style and Elegance of the Townspeople
Protecting the town from fires ー the Third Division Fire Tower
There are three old-fashioned fire stations in Kuroishi. Built in 13th year of the Taisho era (1924), the Third Division Fire Tower is a 2-story wooden building that incorporates elements of western architecture into a traditional Japanese townhouse, mixing retro Taisho design with traces of modernization. The room on the second floor was often used for weddings, so the building is full of memories for the local people. You can also see the oldest fire engine still in active service in Japan and the matoi, which are flags firefighters used to use to notify other firefighters of the site of a fire. If you make a reservation in advance, you can see (part of) the fire station and try waving the matoi for yourself. *Please contact Matsu no Yu Community Center for enquiries and reservations. Tel. 0172-55-6782.
Visit Kuroishi’s old fire stations!
Kuroishi’s fire towers still look fashionable today. We recommend visiting all three of the retro fire stations to take commemorative photos of your trip.
- Kuroishi Fire Brigade Third Division Fire Tower Access (left)
- 3 Kotokubeemachi, Kuroishi
10-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
- Kuroishi Fire Brigade First Division Fire Tower Access (upper right)
- Yamagatamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
20-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
- Kuroishi Fire Brigade Second Division Fire Tower Access (lower right)
- 1 Motomachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
10-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
The well-loved Matsu no Yu Community Center and pine tree
On Komise-dori there is a building with a large pine tree sticking out of its roof. This building started as an inn in the Edo Period before becoming a public bath in the Showa period (1926-1989) and finally transforming into a community space in 2015 with its rebirth as Matsu no Yu Community Center. Once you duck under the curtain and go inside, there is a community space and many fascinating surviving features to enjoy, including the old-fashioned attendant’s booth, shoe boxes, and bathtubs.
- Matsu no Yu Community Center
- Opening Hours: 9:30-18:00
- Closed: Every Monday during winter (Dec-March)
(If Monday is a national holiday, the center is closed on the Tuesday.) - Tel. 0172-55-6782
- 33 Nakamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
10-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
The pine tree, curtains, attendant’s booth, etc.…
So many photographic spots in one place
Sometimes there is a line of people waiting to take a picture with the curtains reading ‘women’s bath’ and ‘men’s bath’ that hang over the entrances. Made from retro materials such as tin, wood, and old glass, the building has a warm atmosphere that will make you breathe a sigh of relief. The 350-year-old pine tree will also brighten your day!
An interesting and convenient place for travelers
Matsu no Yu Community Center is a great spot to take a break, with eating and drinking permitted everywhere inside the center. Free Wi-Fi is also available. One of the rooms still retains some of the features of a public bath, but LAN internet cables run from the old taps instead of water. It is a great spot for travelers with a playful heart.
3 The Flavor of Kuroishi
Open since the Edo period
Terayama Mochi Shop
Originally established as a rice shop in the late Edo Period, the shop started selling mochi from the third generation onwards. Currently, the shop is run by the ninth generation. They only use their own homemade sweet bean paste when making mochi. Their most popular product is shiha mochi (quarter mochi). The flavor of top-grade rice flour kneaded together with bean paste is as delicious as it was during the Edo period. There are three different flavors available: red bean, white bean, and sesame (130 yen per piece).
- Terayama Mochi Shop
- Opening Hours: 8:00-19:00 (no regular closing days)
- Tel. 0172-52-2826
- 36-1 Nakamachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
10-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
There are cute sweets lined up one after another in the glass display case
There are various desserts on display in the shop’s glass display case that will hit the spot if you get hungry while walking along Komise. You can also take a commemorative picture in front of the large shop curtain! Shiha mochi has a sticky texture and a perfectly sweet flavor that isn’t too overpowering.
Tsugaru’s 100-year-old restaurant
Sugo Shokudo
Established in 1912, Sugo Shokudo is right in front of Konan Railway’s Kuroishi Station. Managed by two elderly sisters, the shop is now run by the fourth generation. They never use chemical seasoning and thoroughly prepare all the ingredients by hand using techniques passed down through the generations, such as removing the heads and innards of the small dried sardines they use to make stock. Looking at the exterior and interior, you can sense the restaurant’s long history.
- Sugo Shokudo
- Opening Hours: 10:00-19:00
(Closed: No regular closing days besides August 13th and January 1st to 3rd) - Tel :0172-52-3476
- 186 Ichibancho, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture
1-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
Local gourmet!
Kuroishi’s specialty tsuyu yakisoba
Sugo Shokudo’s tsuyu yakisoba (700 yen) is a local specialty made by adding Japanese-style soup, bits of fried tempura batter, and green onion to Kuroishi yakisoba, which consists of Tsugaru soba noodles covered in a salty-sweet sauce. During the cold winters, a bowl of tsuyu yakisoba will warm you up and fill your empty belly. It is the soul food of hungry children returning home from school or club activities.
＼ANOTHER SPOT／
Fujimikan: Kuroishi’s Ryotei Restaurant
Established in 1895, Fujimikan is a tranquil ryotei restaurant surrounded by a small grove. You can taste Japanese cuisine while enjoying the historical building and beautiful inner garden, whose scenery changes with the seasons. (Lunch from 2,000 yen. Dinner from 3,000 yen. *Reservations required.) (The photographs were provided by Fujimikan.)
- Fujimikan
- Tel. 0172-52-8851 / Opening Hours: 11:00-22:00 / Closed: No regular closing days / 20-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
The head priest at Kuroishi Shrine is a direct descendant of the lords of the former Kuroishi Domain
A descendant of the Tsugaru feudal lords, the head priest is the 15th head of the Kuroishi branch of the Tsugaru clan. At Kuroishi Shrine, there is also a Toshogu Shrine enshrining Tokugawa Ieyasu, which originally stood within the grounds of Hirosaki Castle before being moved to Kuroishi. This Toshogu Shrine was built in the early Edo Period before any of the other Toshogu shrines built by Tokugawa clan members or in other domains. The shrine boasts many treasures, including a sacred sword that is registered as a prefectural Important Cultural Property. You can receive a goshuin shrine seal from both Kuroishi Shrine and Toshogu Shrine.
- Kuroishi Shrine
- 18 Ichinomachi, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture / 15-minute walk from Kuroishi Station on the Konan Railway Konan Line
Wrapped in ivy like a building from a fairy tale! Apple Historical Records Museum
There are various photos and videos about the history and cultivation of apples in Aomori on display in this western-style building, which was built in 1931 (free entry). *There are no toilets, shops, or restaurants inside the museum.
- Aomori Prefectural Industrial Research Center
Apple Research Institute - 24 Fukutami Botandaira, Kuroishi, Aomori Prefecture / Ride the Konan Bus for 10 minutes from Konan Railway’s Kuroishi Station on the Konan Line. / Opening Hours: 9:00-16:00 / Closed: Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays from January to March, end of the year (only open on weekdays from April 2021) / Tel. 0172-52-2331
